There has been an unusual pattern this winter. There have been a considerable number of swells that contained only southwest swell direction. These swells have not included the usual northwest blast. These days have had a summer style to them. Many of these days consisted of warmer temperatures than you would regularly associate with a cold front and well overhead swell. Today, wsw and sw swell flooded the beaches. The light winds allowed the waves to take their natural form, much like if waves were being sent from a hurricane far offshore.
The thickly crowded lineup is indicative of the large south swell. The thicker crowd makes picking good waves harder in conditions like this. The overhead waves breaking over shallow segments of sandbar threw a few people straight to the bottom. One guys face was ground across the bottom and he came up bleeding.
Gulf surfers have learned to appreciate the mediocre surf that frequents our beaches, but we are also passionate about good waves. Light winds and large swell, bringing rifling barrels and wedging peaks is perfection.