Living a life as a surfer in the state of Florida, especially as a gulf surfer, opportunities to surf are infrequent, random, and require a person a freedom to capitalize on these opportunities. The knowledge that is required to find the best waves based on seasonal demands and swell directions is something that takes years to master. What does it take you may ask.
Waves can be unpredictable. With this storm, after forming as a low just off the east coast of Florida many storm models were predicting that it would grow to wave producing significance once it moved further into the Atlantic, which was expected to take a weeks duration due to the storm’s slow movement. Surprisingly, the storm rapidly intensified while near the state. This quick intensification and increase in speed of movement forced anyone who wanted to surf the storm to quickly find a way to the beach. The window of waves came quick and unexpectedly, and the length of time these waves were ripe did not endure for up to a week, as slower moving storms tend to do.
Making the decisions required to get to a decent wave requires wave knowledge and wave vision. First and foremost you need wave knowledge. This is knowing how a wave at various breaks work on certain swell directions and during certain times of year. Also important is wave vision. Wave vision is seeing a wave and making an accurate judgement of the waves potential, or lack thereof based on sight. Wave vision is important for places where waves break on reefs and where they break larger than at other places. Finding that perfect beach, then parking in the correct general vicinity, and finally paddling into the correct section of breaking waves requires a person to commit years before a comprehensive understanding of these concepts can be achieved and applied.
Once your able to understand each of these surfing concepts you will be that much closer to finding that perfect wave. The photos below were taken during hurricane Arthur on the east coast.
