Tag Archives: Austin Hess

Hermine Clip

As the rain was pouring down, Austin and I managed to get a quick clip of the shorebreak surf. Off in the background loomed a nasty squall storm. There was a bolt of lightning or two, but not enough to chase many people out of the water. As the tide dropped, and the swell increased, the outside sandbar began to break. The rain from tropical storm Hermine poured for the whole day.

A Couple Fun Ones

Big slabs rocked the sandbar today.  There were a few waves with some serious hold down power.  Luckily, the waves were breaking in about 5 feet of water, so a quick pop up was easy.

There was a mild south to north drift, but down by the jetty the drift was nonexistent. Slabbing head high waves were finding their way between the mixed up wind choppy swells.  A couple notable waves came through.  I was sitting next to one of the Chivas brothers when the waves stood up. We scored these two really fun waves with a minimal crowd.

One of the brothers(not sure his name exactly) had gone the wave before mine, on the right, scoring what looked like a steep drop and thick lip, the wave draining into the pocket of the corner of the sandbar. Hollowing out as it careened into the sandbar, the wave was thumping.

Immediately after that wave, this massive west slab only a bit bigger than the one before grew quickly in size.  Go left I thought, because the right was this big gnarly closeout dredger.  I was sitting just on the opposite side of the peak of the right.  And as you may have learned, Sand Key is a challenging wave to take off behind the peak, because of the fast nature of the wave and the lip.  Often times on big waves, boards with convex bottoms(like the one I am riding) will slip out.  Electing to go left, and concerned about the quad setup, the board was holding.  The wave was only a short one, because the end section was bowling toward me, but this set up a crisp and mellow lip to explode on.  The fins cracked the lip shooting water high into the air.  With what was left of the water in the lip section, so went the quad setup fin portion of the bottom of the board.  Momentum carried the tail of the board through the back.  The board was rotating on it’s center, while staying evenly fixed in the energized lip section.  The blow tail ended with a bumpy ride down the white-wash section of the wave.  The wave bucked me off at the bottom.  The wave was so fun.