Six time world champion charges big sections in this video with a voiceover by the lovely lady herself. She says how her experience in the water has helped her understand how to determine the best waves when she walks down to the beach. She mentions the importance of paddling out through the channel, an especially important thing in conditions like they have on the North Shore. Paddling and positioning are discussed as extremely important, and certainly so in treacherous conditions. I’ll tell you what, this girl knows what she’s talking about.
Tag Archives: How to surf
Morning Surfing
Why the morning? What’s so good about the mornings? There are afternoons and evenings with incoming tides. What makes the morning so good, I ask myself as I looked at the crappy surf this afternoon, looking at the wonky waves pushing across the super low tide sandbar. Continue reading Morning Surfing
Cuts and Scrapes
Ouuuuch.
What makes the new t-groins so daunting is the peak. Depending on the tide and size of the swell the peak shifts around. When it’s big the peak can be deep on the inside corner of the groins. Catching waves Continue reading Cuts and Scrapes